Most visitors often overlook the small islands surrounding the heart of Venice. But a trip to the islands of Mazzorbo and Burano are well worth the trip.
The tranquil and sparsely populated island of Mazzorbo, about a 30-minute water taxi ride from the city center, is home to the Venetian lagoon's only vineyard, Venissa. The small property was bought by the Bisol winemaking family in 2002, and since has been made into a vineyard, a restaurant, and a six-room hotel.
The Venetian Islands of Mazzorbo and Burano
Gianluca Bisol decided to plant the vineyard to restore a nearly extinct white grape known as the "Dorona," or the golden grape, remnants of which he found on a nearby island. The vineyard now produces about 4,000 bottles of wine a year. Each wine bottle is decorated with a gold-leaf label, in keeping with the grape's name, and reminiscent of the gilded ceiling of St. Mark's Basilica in Venice's historic center. The wine is buttery and rich, distinct from both red and white varieties. The latest release, a 2011 vintage, sells for $165.
The restaurant, whose glass walls overlook the vineyard and a 15th-century bell tower, pays homage to classic Venetian dishes, made with products from the lagoon. The kitchen is run by four up-and-coming Italian chefs, each of whom cook one of four courses. This "8-handed" collaborative approach leads to inventive takes on traditional dishes, like spaghetti topped with anchovies smoked on beech-wood.
The restaurant embraces the farm-to-table approach, and the dishes incorporate a variety of fresh vegetables grown in a garden on the estate. Tender lamb medallions cooked in Recioto wine are accompanied by celeriac purée, marine herbs, and wild spinach. Lightly seared scallops are paired with a purple potato purée.
Arrive early and walk across the wooden footbridge that links the property to Burano, where the main canals are lined with candy-colored houses. Historically, legend has it, the houses were painted bright colors so the fisherman could find their way home at night through the fog (of weather and drink). Today, the houses preview the vivid colors in the dishes across the footbridge at Venissa.